How to Choose Snowboard Bindings

Once you’ve chosen a board, you’ll need to fit it with 1 of the 3 types of bindings: soft, step-in or hard. Your choice depends on the type of boarding you do and the type of boot you prefer. No matter which style you choose, your bindings should be customized to your preferred stance width, binding angle and canting.

Be aware that snowboard bindings do not release in a fall the way alpine ski bindings do. Even when a rider wants to skate or glide by pushing off with a free foot, bindings must be released manually. On the plus side, injuries are less likely than they are in downhill skiing. With both feet attached firmly to the board, a rider’s legs and joints are less likely to bend and twist at odd angles in a fall.

Most bindings fasten to the board in a pre-tapped binding configuration called a 4×4 mounting pattern, except Burton snowboards, which use a 3-D system. These mounting systems allow easy changes in the binding placement and stance angles.

Types of Bindings

Soft (or Shell) Bindings: Soft-or shell-bindings used with soft boots are the most common style. You can choose from soft bindings with a low, medium or high back, depending on your need for mobility versus support. The front usually has 2 adjustable straps; 3-strap boots are preferred by freestyle riders who want a little more control. Freestylers also tend to favor a soft binding with a lower back for more flexibility and mobility. Others use a soft binding that has no base. This puts the boot in contact with the board for more sensitivity. All soft bindings have multiple adjustment options and, when combined with a good soft boot, give excellent support.

Step-in Bindings: These increasingly popular bindings do not automatically release in the same way ski bindings do, but they easily fasten the boot to the board without straps (just like alpine ski bindings). Step-in bindings are boot-specific, so you buy boots and bindings together as a system. On the downside, snow tends to collect on boot bottoms when you are walking, making these bindings difficult to lock in. Most step-ins have a rigid sole and are stiffer than traditional boots. You may need a narrower stance with step-ins than with soft boots.

Hard (or Plate) Bindings: Most often found on alpine-style boards, these are paired with rigid boots that resemble those used with alpine skis. A simple clip, or bail, holds the boot on the board and can be released quickly. Some have pivoting turntables. On technical climbs and descents, plate bindings with hard boots give excellent edge control, but they don’t allow as much lateral flex or mobility.

Setting Up Your Bindings

Consider these three factors when mounting bindings on your snowboard:

• Width, (How far apart do you want your feet?)
• Angle (Which way do you want your toes to point on top of the board? More sideways or more toward the end of the board?)
• Centering. (How far back from the end of the board do you want to stand?)

Stance Width: Stance width, or the distance between your feet, depends on your height, your board length and the type of riding you do. Generally, taller people go for a wider stance, while shorter people keep their feet closer together. In terms of handling, freestylers usually prefer a wider stance for greater board stability, maneuverability and flexibility and less rotation weight. All-mountain riders prefer a narrower stance that puts their weight in the center of the board, making turns easier when they’re carving down the corduroy. Initially, try a stance about shoulder-width apart. As you gain experience, you will most likely change your stance to match your riding style.

Stance Angle: The stance angle refers to the direction that your feet point on your board. Factors such as comfort, your boot length, the forward lean of your boot, your board’s width and centering (see below) all determine the angle at which you mount your bindings. For instance, if your feet are long and your board is not very wide, you will probably want to have a greater stance angle toward the end of the board to avoid having foot drag when you put pressure on the side edges. The toes need to be angled somewhat at the board edges, however, to keep enough pressure on the edges to turn.

Centering: Bindings can be center-mounted, but they’re usually set 1″-2″ back from center. This position gives better nose control and better flotation in deep snow and makes turning easier on steep slopes. A centered mount can be an advantage in hard snow, giving balanced rotations when carving, but it can have less grip on the heelside edge. Freeriders tend to ride back of the center while powder boarders set the bindings back even farther. An incorrect stance can keep your board from flexing properly, limiting your range of motion and diminishing your control, so take the time to determine the stance that’s right for you.

Leashes: Leashes are required at all ski areas. A leash is attached to the binding on one end and the rider’s leg on the other, preventing a board from running loose on the course or falling from a chairlift.

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