Canoeing Basics and Frequently Asked Questions

What gear will I need?

So you’ve got your canoe. There are a few other essential items that you will need before you hit the water.

Paddles: Canoe paddles have just one blade. One of the most important determining factors in paddle selection is length. Talk with our paddling specialists to make sure you get a paddle that is right for you.

PFD: A type III or V Coast Guard approved PFD (Personal Flotation Device) is required in the United States. This is a vest type jacket, NOT one of those orange horseshoe type jackets. Whatever the law requires, it’s just plain smart to wear one.

Canoe Paddling Basics

This is an introductory video to a series providing some of the mechanics behind obtaining complete control of a canoe using the traditional Canadian style paddling handed down from aboriginal paddlers through generations of summer camp adaptations in the Canoe Country region of Ontario in Canada.

Introduction to Paddling: Canoeing Basics for Lakes and Rivers

Written by the American Canoe Association and the Ohio Department of Natural Resources, Introduction to Paddling is an easy-to-understand guide to flatwater and river paddling. Based on an earlier work by the Ohio DNR, Flat-water Paddler, this amply illustrated book tells beginning paddlers everything they need to know, from appropriate clothing to the parts of the boat, from correct strokes to proper safety concerns. Good for instructors and those who like to teach themselves, this book is an important resource for those who like to paddle or want to start.

Dry Bag: Dry bags do just what their name implies-keeps your stuff dry. They come in different shapes and sizes. Small dry bags work great for carrying your camera, lunch, or an extra sweater. Larger dry bags are designed to hold enough gear for a five-day river trip.

Layers: The right clothing can be the difference between a cold, miserable experience, and the time of your life! These layers are made from synthetic fabrics designed to wick moisture away from your body to keep you warm. Cotton kills, but fleece will keep you warm.

Medical Kit: You can never predict when an accident will happen; it is always a good idea to be prepared. These items are highly recommended for trips both long and short. If something does happen, you will be glad you have them. Always carry a medical kit and know how to use it.

Footwear: Footwear will protect your feet and keep them warm. Most people prefer booties for because they can be combined with socks to keep your feet warm and have treads designed especially for walking on slick rocks. Sandals are versatile footwear that can be worn in the water and around camp.

Backpacking/Canoeing Gear Walkthrough

Basic Essentials Solo Canoeing

For a generation the Basic Essentials series has been as much a part of the outdoors experience as backpacks and hiking boots. Information-packed tools for the novice or handy references for the veteran, these volumes distill years of knowledge into affordable and portable books. Whether you’re planning a trip or thumbing for facts in the field, Basic Essentials books tell you what you need to know. Discover how to choose the right type of solo canoe, customize your solo canoe for peak performance, perform various braces and ferry strokes, pack and portage for camping expeditions and maintain and repair your solo canoe.

Choosing a Life Jacket

There are PFDs designed for different water sports. Only type III Coast Guard approved PFDs are approved for whitewater and flatwater paddling use. They provide plenty of flotation for the average adult and are generally the most comfortable for activities like paddling. (Note: water skiing life jackets are usually too stiff and don’t provide enough arm room for the motions of paddling).

If you’re primarily a kayaker, you will need a PFD that ends at the stomach so it doesn’t interfere with your spray skirt.

Touring paddlers need a PFD with a short torso and additional pockets to stow gear. A high visibility vest with reflective trim or bright colors is also a good idea.

Choosing the Right Life Jacket for Kayaking

This episode of Paddling TV explains how to choose and fit a PFD so that it’s comfortable to wear and paddle with.

Those who have specific rescue training may opt for a rescue vest. This type of vest has extra gadgets that will assist the paddler in a rescue situation. It is important to understand how to use the vest before hitting the water.

Choosing a Paddle

Strength: In general, whitewater paddles are more robust than touring paddles. They’re stronger, more durable, and made to take a beating. You can use a ww paddle for flatwater touring, but it is not recommend to use a touring paddle in whitewater.

Length: If you paddle a wide boat, you will need a longer paddle. Whitewater kayak paddles are generally shorter than touring paddles. A longer paddle gives more leverage in flat water, but is usually unwieldy when trying to maneuver technical whitewater. There are some exceptions. Whitewater sit-on-tops and inflatable kayaks usually require longer paddles because the boats are wider.

How to Choose the Right Size Kayak Paddle

Rick talks though the three major considerations – boat width, paddler height and paddling angle – to keep in mind when choosing a kayak paddle.

Blade Size and Shape: Blade sizes are usually slightly larger on whitewater paddles than flatwater paddles for both kayak and canoe. There are three basic blade shapes: dihedral, spooned, and asymmetrical. A dihedral blade has a wide center and tapered edges to direct water smoothly around the paddle in flatwater. Spooned blades have a “cupped” power face that grips the water for extra pull. Asymmetrical blades are designed to reduce twisting on the shaft during a stroke by submersing equal surface area on both sides of the paddle axis. Asymmetrical shapes are popular with both flatwater and whitewater boaters.

A wide blade will provide more leverage, but takes more energy to power. A narrow blade requires more strokes, but allows you to stroke faster and lighter and provides less wind resistance.

Weight: A short trip could require as many as 5,000 paddle strokes. Just a few ounces could save you a lot of energy and is worth the extra money.

Basic Canoeing: All the Skills You Need to Get Started

This illustrated guide on the essential skills of canoeing should be required reading for anyone getting into the sport. A section on the mechanics of good paddling is followed by a catalog of the most important strokes, each illustrated in sequential photos, with concise text on the key points. Essential river maneuvers – eddy turns, peel-outs, and ferries–are demonstrated by the Olympic paddling team of Wayne Dickert and Horace Holden, Jr.

How to Load Your Boat on a Car

One of the most frustrating issues for women sea kayakers is getting the boat on and off of a vehicle. Sea kayaks can be heavy and awkward, not to mention they require careful handling. Trying to load the kayak without damaging the boat or the car can be tricky. It seems practically impossible to load the kayak solo.

When working solo, load one end of the boat at a time. Working from the side of the vehicle, put the stern up first to protect the rudder. If your vehicle is tall, it is helpful to stand on a bucket or stepladder. To protect the bow while it is on the ground, place a tarp or a small square of carpet underneath it. Once you get the stern up, you can lift the bow into place.

Another solo loading method that works well for smaller cars involves working from the rear. Place the bow onto the car’s rear rack or roof edge. You may want to use a piece of carpet to protect the car. Since the stern is on the ground, be sure to place some kind of padding underneath it to protect the rudder. Once the bow is on the rear rack, pick up the stern and slide the boat forward until it is in place.

When you set the boat in place, make sure to secure the boat immediately. Strong winds may knock the boat out of place. Tighten down the straps across the boat until they are snug, and then tie bow and stern lines to the bumper. Be careful not to over-tighten the straps to avoid damaging the boat. Loaded boats should always be pointed bow forward (it’s a karma thing).

How to Clean Your Wetsuit

I suggest you follow the care and washing instructions on your suit. The easiest way to care for your suit is with fresh water. Thoroughly rinse your suit as soon as you get home, especially if your suit has been exposed to salt water.

Stains on neoprene can sometimes be removed with a neoprene shampoo. You can also try a mild hair shampoo to clean the suit.

Keep an eye out for gouges and tears along seams. Neoprene can be repaired with wetsuit cement and a quick sew up with heavy polyester thread. A large gouge can be replaced with a patch of neoprene.

The area around the zipper can be prone to tearing because neoprene stretches, but the zipper doesn’t. It may help to keep the zipper lubricated with candle wax or beeswax. And regularly check the area for damage.

Let your suit dry thoroughly before putting it away. Store it in a cool, dry place away from heat, sunlight, and humidity. Store it from a hanger, folding it may leave permanent creases. Do not rest heavy items on your wetsuit as permanent dents mean lost insulation.

 

Whitewater Canoes

These boats are designed for whitewater and technical river running. The blunt ends, short length, and wide cross-section make these boats perfect for creeking. These boats can be paddled solo or tandem. The floatation in the front and back prevents the boat from filling with water. This is a great boat for any type of whitewater paddling, surfing, eddy hopping, and long multiday trips.

Canoeing & Camping Beyond the Basics

A thoroughly modern, ultra complete book for those who love canoes and the magic of wild places. Begins with the basics and progresses through expedition techniques that only experts know-and which you won’t find in other books. Any one of Jacobson’s tried-and-true tips is worth the price of the book. He gives make-it-yourself instructions for all sorts of useful items for canoeing and camping, as well as lots of sage advice regarding safety issues.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. What is the difference in the fiberglass and kevlar canoe?

A. The Kevlar canoe is lighter (up to 20 pounds) than the fiberglass canoe. There is a false assumption that the Kevlar in canoe is bullet proof. IT IS NOT. It will take a stretching accident better than fiberglass but you can punch holes in them. The Kevlar is more difficult to repair.

Q. I have an ABS (Royalex) canoe that is damaged. Can it be repaired?

A. Yes. Go to an auto body shop that repairs the ABS parts to the newer cars. They should be able to help you.

Q. I tore the canvas on my canoe on my last trip. Can I repair it?

A. If the canvas is sound (no rot anywhere) cut the canvas so you will have about 3″ to work in. If the hole is that size or larger you won’t have to cut. We take a hacksaw blade and grind the teeth off it (they are thin and flexible). Then we have material (cotton sheeting will do or light canvas is better) about 1/2″ to 1″ larger all around than the hole. Work the canvas into the hole and work it with the hacksaw blade until you have it all under the canoe canvas and is smooth. Then work some ambroid cement. Try and get the sides of the tear as close together as possible and lightly tap in brass tacks to hold down the canvas (don’t put them in all the way, just far enough to hold the canvas down) until the ambroid has set. Leave it about a day before taking the tacks out. Fill the small gap, as you won’t be able to get the sides of the tear together, with ambroid and smear it with your finger to get it smooth. Do this a couple of times. If there is still some variations then use car glazing putty, sand, then repaint. If you have broken plank and ribs then you will have to take the canvas off. The canvas will have to be almost new for this to be done successfully. This is VERY difficult and the canvas can’t be left off for more than a day or two. I wouldn’t try this unless you are prepared to re-canvas if it doesn’t work.

Q. I have an old cedar canvas canoe and is in need of canvas. Instead of canvas I was going to put fiberglass on it. Any comments?

A. I do NOT recommend fiberglassing a hull ment for canvas. Moisture will not be able to escape before causing the wood to rot. What makes a cedar canvas canoe a real pleasure to paddle is the way it flexes as you paddle. I remember we accidentally ran over a rock just under the surface and we could watch the rock all the way down the hull as it flexed. When we got to shore we turned the canoe over and there was just a scrape in the paint. The strength is in it’s flexibility. When you fiberglass it you take all this away as fiberglassing makes the hull rigid. As a result you will get a lot more hull damage, broken ribs, planks etc. These are almost impossible to repair because of the fiberglassing on the hull.

Quite a few people realize their error after they put the glass on their hull and want it off. Unless the hull was oiled before the glass was put on it will be VERY difficult to take off and you will have to carefully pick away at the resin that is between the planks. It can be done but time consuming. Also fiberglassing makes the canoe very heavy. As you can see, a person who would fiberglass a hull meant for canvas doesn’t know the problems that are caused. By fiberglassing your hull you have limited it’s life. A canvas covered canoe can last many years if taken care of and kept under cover when not in use. Old Canoes do require rebuilding once in a while. It all depends on how they were stored.

Q. I am interested in buying a canoe with 3 keels. Can you tell me more about this type of canoe?

A. The 3 keel canoe is aimed at the lowest cost production. The 3 keels are a way of increasing stiffness in the bottom of the canoe without the labor and material cost of using a proper internal reinforcing system. These canoes are quite often heavy. The presence of the 3 keels can inhibit the ability of a canoe to be maneuvered properly especially in fast water. They also make the canoe difficult to turn as each on of the keels are trying to keep the canoe in a straight line. They also increase drag which makes the canoe slower. There are several canoe manufacturers that build 3 keeled canoes and make a number of false claims for the presence of the 3 keels but in reality it is only a way of producing a low cost canoe. If you really are interested in a 3 keel canoe decide how you will be using the canoe (load, water conditions, tripping or just cottage use). The only canoe where the 3 keels are necessary is a square end canoe as they give the extra support to prevent the bottom from arching with the thrust of the motor. My own choice is a no keel canoe because I don’t want a keel to snag on a rock when I skid a canoe in fast water. I also like to travel in very shallow water which is easier with no keel. Lets face it, the very first canoes, birch bark, never had keels (not even with one keel) and our country was explored with them.

Q. I am wondering if a fiberglass canoe that has developed 2-8 inch cracks on the outer surface can be repaired. The cracks are only on the outer layer of the canoe; they do not go completely through the canoe.

A. If the cracks are on the surface alone it is due to aging and shrinking of the gel coat or a manufacturer who didn’t use the right mix when they sprayed the gel coat into the mold. The only permanent solution is to remove all the gel coat using a grinder, be careful you don’t damage the fiberglass cloth under the gel coat, and build up a new finish with rolled on layers of West System epoxy then put on a new finish of marine paint. In our experience you can’t effectively repair a faulty area, if you try to put something over it, the cracks will come through. The way I see it, you have two practical choices, you can repair it the way I described or just leave it. If the underlining glass fabrics aren’t cracked it shouldn’t cause you any trouble as the gel coat has no more strength than a coat of paint. You can grind out the affected areas and replace them with West System epoxy but as the canoe ages more cracks will appear and you will continually be doing this. That is why I suggested grinding it all off and get all the dirty work done at once then there should be no more problems.

Q. I have a hole in my fiberglass canoe. How do I repair it?

A. First you grind the gel coat off down to the fiberglass cloth on both the inside and outside. Grind about 1″ out from the split all around. I use West System epoxy for repairs as it is flexible and won’t pop off as the hull flexes. Cut a piece of fiberglass cloth slightly larger than the split (but not larger than the ground out spot). Wet it out with epoxy and lay it over the split on the outside of the hull. Cover this with a film of plastic (lightweight vapor barrier) and tape the edges down with masking tape, squeeze out the air bubbles. When it has set (next day) sand the surface and clean with lacquer thinners or acetone. Do this procedure over again until you have built the surface up to the original thickness. Then turn the canoe over and repeat on inside. Lightly sand and paint.

Caution: do not use polyester resins as it shrinks and will not give with the hull and eventually you will have to do it again. Doing it with epoxy makes a permanent repair.

Q. How do I measure myself for a paddle?

A. Once you have decided the style of paddle which best suits your needs, you need to determine the proper length of shaft (the shaft is the portion from the grip to the top portion of the blade where it starts to widen), not the paddle as many blade lengths differ. If the shaft length is too long or too short, not only will your stroke be inefficient but you will endure unnecessary stress in the shoulders and back. The optimum paddling position allows for the blade to be completely submerged while your hand on the grip of the paddle is between chin and nose level. If you already own a paddle that you like and are accustom to the length measure its shaft length. If you don’t have a paddle or wish to verify the proper shaft length, then go through the following steps we take to fit paddles. From the sitting position, measure the distance from the seat to your mouth (make sure you are sitting straight up as you would paddling). To that measurement add six inches. The six inches we add is the approximate distance you will be sitting or kneeling above the water level. Voila! your measured. Now measure the shaft length of the style of paddle that you have chosen until you find a match.

Q. How do I paint an old fiberglass (or Kevlar) canoe?

A. To paint a fiberglass canoe you will need to do any hull repairs first then sand the gel coat with a 240 sand paper then sand again with about a 400 grit. This will get the oxidized gel coat off and create a surface the paint can bond onto. I don’t use a primer. I prefer to use several coats of a good quality marine enamel and sand between coats. Most people who have used an epoxy paint have found that it is not as high a quality as they expected. The only other type of paint I would use would be an automotive polyurethane paint and this would have to be sprayed by someone who is familiar with type of paint.

Q. Do you have any tips on taking fiberglass off the outside hull of a wood canoe that was meant for canvas? It was glassed with polyester resin probably back in the 60′s. The canoe is in pretty good condition otherwise and is worth whatever time it takes me to restore it. It has always been kept under cover.

A. You are fortunate that your canoe was kept under cover as most of them would have rotted out by now because the fiberglass holds the water against the wood and doesn’t allow it to dry quickly. The fiberglass is difficult and time consuming to take off. One way is to soak the canoe for a few days, 3-4, then use a heat gun to soften the resin. If you have a creek nearby just fill the canoe with water and tie it to something so it won’t float away. If you don’t have water nearby then place the canoe on plastic, thick vapor barrier will do, then put water in the canoe (don’t fill it as that would be too much weight) and pull another piece of plastic over it to encase the canoe in plastic. Do this on several sunny warm days. This will act as a sauna and will help loosen the glass. Then use the heat gun and scrape as much of the resin off as you can. Let the hull dry then sand the rest of the resin off as there will be some left.

You will also have to pick out the resin from between the planking as it will break loose as the canoe flexes when you put the canvas on and will go between the canvas and planking. You may damage some of the planking while doing this but it can be changed. After you have completed your job then oil the hull with boiled linseed oil (½ boiled oil, ½ turpentine). As you can imagine, you have taken most of the oil out of the wood while soaking and stripping. Then your hull is ready for canvas. Some canoe manufacturers oiled their hulls right from the factory before putting on the canvas. If you have one of these canoes then your job is much easier as all you will have to do is pull and it will come off in hunks. You will still have to sand and pick the resin out from between the planks.

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